As we wanted to experience the Kumano Kodo (the old-times pilgrim path) a bit more we stayed in the mountains in a classical ryokan. These Japanese houses are in principle hotels and offer tatami (the floor mat) rooms of different size. In older times (and even nowadays in simpler establishments, very often they are called minshuku) the toilets and showers are shared, which might be very authentic, but not really our cup of tea…

So, our ryokan of choice was next to a river in a valley

Very peaceful and silent water

And in winter outside pools are made which fill with the hot water rising from the bottom in some hotspots. You can dig your own pool as well – as those two are trying to demonstrate…

Really large (for Japan…) and not too comfortable you can be assured. It is one thing to see and walk on these floors – another one to lie on them with just a futon (un-squeezed something like 5 cm thickness) between you and the mat. Just imagine camping in tents; got the idea… Well, it is similar…

And picturesque with the seating area facing the stream (unfortunately a street was in between as well).

You can see that it is old-fashioned; but that is Japan for you (very, very often!). They like it this way and most Japanese guests (which in the main season would be the absolute majority) are old themselves so it matches…

Getting around is unreal for Japan – narrow, winding roads and always passing places. It’s a bit stressy but works out fine…

One more thing to mention is that in a ryokan you usually get your food in the room or a dining place in the ryokan as such. They praise themselves for providing excellent food so we gave it a try.

Our table was laid out with tools by the waiter (in our room as a large group occupied the dining hall)

And then you start to find a comfortable seating position Fortunately they had half-chairs (so the backside and legs chopped off ) which made the ordeal easier for us used to tables and chairs…

Hotpots are nice inventions

And the grilled trout was an absolute treat

Next morning I organized breakfast in the room for Ursi and the way to make eggs is just unique

Being filled up we headed for the main temple in the area. Unfortunately it was raining hard all the time so we had to really convince ourselves… Well, first a coffee to get you going…

Lovely

Water everywhere…

The way up to the temple is as usual a long stairway

Funny to see the banners fading out in the rain

Glimpsing back gives you an even better impression…

And it rained, rained, rained…

Cleaning your face and hands before prayers

is Buddhist ritual

The main hall had many beautiful details

Like these mythic elephants

or beautiful lamps

The side-shrine was just stunning

Covered in a mossy fur

The foul weather didn’t prevent prayer and the spiritual experience might be even stronger

A bit too organized for my liking…

The main hall…

Very nice

Impressions of rain…

Play of colours

Dissolving

Spiritual experience

Ghost-houses

And the usual sale of everything superstitious

Moods…

Looks more like a grumpy cat with water…

Wet bamboo

Due to the torrential rain all day the river swelled excessively and by evening you couldn’t see the bed anymore

So we opted to retire and enjoy our delicious meal once more

Sashimi

Something new for us – roe on a kelp leaf. Looks artificial but is natural – 80% of the world production is from Canada where the 1st people chase swarms of herring into bays where there is kelp so that they lay their eggs there…

Crunchy, yummy and delicious – hopefully not too bad for the eco-system as the eggs should develop sometimes

Burp… All eaten up – too much

Just a final walk in the village to the other hotel where they have a hot spring where you can take a sip

Loads of sediment

And somehow corrosive

We just found this one as well – absolutely cool. A flexible garden hose